Kitbash / Conversion

Every miniature range has gaps. The pose you want doesn't exist. The weapon loadout isn't in the kit. Your character's backstory doesn't match any official model. Kitbashing solves all of that, and the result is a model nobody else on the planet owns.

You'll plan, build, sculpt, and paint a converted miniature from concept through final photography, turning spare bits and sculpting putty into something that looks like it was always meant to exist.

Concept and Parts Planning

Start with a rough sketch. Stick figures with arrows ("this arm from kit X, torso from kit Y, custom shoulder pad sculpted") are fine. The sketch forces you to think about proportions and which parts you need before cutting expensive models.

Source bits from resellers (Hoard o' Bits, eBay lots, r/miniswap) or your own leftovers box. Proportions matter more than anything. A Space Marine arm on a Stormcast body looks off even with a clean connection. Stick within the same product range when possible. Mixing GW ranges (40k, AoS, Necromunda) works because they share proportional language. Mixing GW with Reaper requires more sculpting to bridge the style gap.

Dry Fit, Cut, and Pin

Dry fit every part with blue tac before glue touches anything. Evaluate the pose at arm's length. Photograph the dry fit. You'll catch problems in photos that you miss in person.

Cut with a razor saw (Citadel or Tamiya) for clean straight cuts, flush cutters off sprues. Pin every structural join: drill with a pin vise (0.8-1mm bit), insert brass rod, super glue one side, let cure, then attach the other part. Pinning prevents conversion arms from snapping off mid-game. For heavy metal or resin parts, use thicker 1.5mm rod.

Gorilla Gel or Loctite Gel super glue gives you 10-15 seconds of repositioning time. BSI activator spray speeds cure when you need an instant bond.

Sculpting Gaps

Every conversion has gaps where parts don't fit flush. Greenstuff (the yellow-blue epoxy putty) and Milliput handle this. Mix equal parts, let it firm up 10-15 minutes, then press into gaps with a silicone clay shaper or a water-dipped hobby knife.

Greenstuff holds fine detail (fur, rope, chainmail) and cures in about 4 hours. Milliput sands smooth after curing, making it better for flat surfaces and armor plates. I often mix both: Milliput for bulk shape, greenstuff for surface texture. Gap-filling doesn't require artistic talent. You're smoothing transitions, not sculpting faces.

Prime, Inspect, and Paint

Prime with grey and hold under a strong light. Primer reveals mold lines, unfilled gaps, and rough putty. Sand rough spots with 400-grit, fill remaining gaps, re-prime, and inspect again.

The painting challenge is making different source materials read as one model. Carry colors and textures across the joins. If the torso is from one kit and legs from another, paint them with the same armor color to unify. Basecoat, wash, highlight as normal. Greenstuff and Milliput accept paint slightly differently than plastic, but after primer the difference is minimal.

Basing and Story

A conversion's base reinforces the story. A running model on a debris-strewn base, a commander on a rocky outcrop, a rogue on a sewer grate. Build the base before final attachment so you can plan foot placement. Pin the model to the base for a secure connection, especially with dynamic poses.

Common Mistakes

• Ignoring proportions. Mixing parts across wildly different ranges produces models that look "off." Check proportions during dry fit.
• Skipping the pin. Super glue alone on a conversion join will break at the worst moment. Pin every structural join.
• Rushing sculpted gaps. A visible gap screams "kitbash" instead of "custom model." The primer inspection step catches anything you missed.
• Over-converting. Eight donor kits and three sculpted accessories looks busy. The best conversions make 2-3 changes that tell a clear story.
• Not documenting parts. Log every donor kit so you can answer "what bits did you use?" and replicate the work later.

A good conversion is invisible. When someone says "what kit is that from?" instead of "nice kitbash," you've nailed it.