Olruggio Cosplay
Witch Hat Atelier's fire witch and Qifrey's best friend: the heavy black velvet cloak with royal blue lining and gold trim, a white bell-sleeve shirt, a long black skirt, the bronze belt with two spiral discs, and a tall brimless cone hat. The cloak is the make-or-break piece and most of the budget. A casual version without the cloak works for beginners. 7 components, 15 materials, ~6 weeks, $120-320.
6 weeks
13
15
7
See the whole look before you start.
References, materials, budget, and build order for Olruggio.
Timeline
6 weeks
Color refs
Materials
15 items
Budget
$120 - $320
save the visual refs
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Build guide
Skip the full circle cloak. I know the anime art makes it look like a whole sky of fabric, and one builder on r/WitchHatAtelier put about 12 meters into theirs, but Olruggio's cloak is canonically so heavy he slouches. You don't need to recreate that part. A three-quarter circle gives you the same blue flash when you turn and saves you around half the weight on your shoulders.
The cloak is the build. Everything else is a shirt, a skirt, a belt and a hat, and you can finish all four in two weekends. The cloak eats most of the $120 to $320 budget and most of the six weeks.
Fabric first, because it's the hardest thing here to get right. Poly stretch velvet runs about $11 a yard and you need 5 to 6 yards, plus the same amount of royal blue lining (I matched to roughly #3A3FA8, which is closer to cobalt than navy). Cotton velveteen breathes better, and if your con is in July that matters more than drape, but it crushes when you sit and costs more. My actual advice is to check thrift stores for velvet curtains before you buy a single yard. Skip blackout-lined drapes, they're too stiff. Plain velvet panels are what you want.
Velvet has nap. Simplicity S8770 view A calls for 5 yards of 60-inch "with nap" and that note matters: lay every piece in the same direction, or the back panel and the fronts read as two different blacks the moment a flash hits them. I cut the hood with the nap running down so it doesn't look gray when it's flipped back. The S8770 hood is rounded, so extend the back seam into a point about 15 cm past the curve, and make sure it clears your hat.
Bag the shell and lining together, understitch, then bind the outer edge in gold bias. The gold buttons go on the blue front facings, not the black. Gold cord and two tassels at the neck. That's the whole silhouette.
The belt is where people give up and buy a set, and the sets all get it wrong. Two layered discs of 6mm EVA on a brown faux leather band, spiral grooves pressed in while the foam is warm, sealed, then Rub 'n Buff Antique Gold rubbed on with a fingertip so the grooves stay dark. Velcro at the back keeps the discs centered.
Hat is 2mm EVA rolled into a tall brimless cone and covered in your leftover cloak velvet. Not optional. A cotton hat next to a velvet cloak photographs as a different black every time.
Shirt: buy a medieval wide-sleeve shirt, cut the cuffs off, hem into bells, add ties at the elbow. Sewing one from scratch is fine if you want to, but it's the lowest-return hour in the whole build.
Last thing. A lined velvet cloak is hot. Carry it over your arm between photos, and save the hood-over-hat shot for when the photographer is ready.
Components
Velvet cloak with blue lining and pointed hood
White bell-sleeve shirt with elbow ties
Long full black skirt
Wide bronze belt with spiral disc medallions
Tall brimless cone hat with gold band and tassel
White leg wraps and black flats
Black hair and goatee
Pattern Plan
Real sewing patterns for each piece of the Olruggio costume: the commercial base to start from, a free alternative where one exists, and the exact modifications that turn the base into the character-accurate piece.
Velvet cloak with blue lining and pointed hood
Modifications for velvet cloak with blue lining and pointed hood: Use view A (hooded, floor length). Replace the contrast hood, front and armhole facings with a full royal blue lining cut from the cape pieces, and bag it to the shell. Extend the hood back seam into a point about 15 cm past the curve so it fits over the cone hat. Skip the 2 inch buckle; close with gold cord and two tassels. Turn the front edges back as blue facings and set 4 to 5 gold shank buttons on each. Bind the outer edge and hood edge in gold bias. Cut every velvet piece with the nap running the same way.
Modifications for velvet cloak with blue lining and pointed hood: Use view C for the body, since it already has lapels with buttons and decorative trim. Leave off the stand-up collar and attach the hood from view D directly to the neckline instead of on the capelet, then draft the hood tip into a point. All views are unlined, so cut a full blue lining from the cape pieces and bag it to the shell.
Modifications for velvet cloak with blue lining and pointed hood: Already drafted with a full lining and lists velvet as a suggested fabric. Replace the collar with a pointed hood (borrow the S8770 hood or draft one from your head measurement over the hat), swap the toggle for a gold cord tie, and check the 50 inch back length against your height so it reaches the ankle.
Any lined, hooded, ankle-length cape works as a base. What makes it read as Olruggio is the black-and-blue contrast, the gold edge binding, and the buttons on the blue facings, so spend your time there instead of hunting for a licensed pattern.
White bell-sleeve shirt with elbow ties
Modifications for white bell-sleeve shirt with elbow ties: Use view A. Leave off the cuffs and cut the sleeve 10 to 15 cm longer, flaring the lower sleeve so it hangs open as a bell instead of gathering at the wrist. Leave the faced front slit open with no cravat. Sew a narrow tie cord at each elbow. Paper and PDF versions sell out at times, so check before you plan around it.
Modifications for white bell-sleeve shirt with elbow ties: Cut it in white crepe or cotton voile instead of organza. Drop the pleated cuffs and widen the sleeve hem into a bell. Skip the collar and stand, and finish the neckline as an open V slit. The full button placket can stay closed below the slit.
Most builders buy this piece. Search for a medieval or pirate shirt with very wide sleeves, cut off the cuffs and hem them into bells. Sew one only if you can't find a shirt with enough sleeve volume.
Materials list
15 itemsEstimated total cost
$120 - $320
Milestone timeline
6 weeks- 1
Gather references and pick full cloak or casual Olly
Research
- 2
Buy and swatch velvet and blue lining under phone flash
Materials
- 3
Cut the cloak as a three-quarter circle with a pointed hood
Patterning
- 4
Sew the cloak shell and blue lining, then bag them together
Construction
- 5
Bind the cloak edge in gold and set the buttons and neck cords
Details
- 6
Sew or alter the bell-sleeve shirt and add elbow ties
Construction
- 7
Sew the long gathered skirt with a wide waistband
Construction
- 8
Build the belt band and the two spiral disc medallions
Construction
- 9
Heat-shape the foam cone hat and cover it in cloak scraps
Construction
- 10
Paint the belt discs and hat trim antique gold
Finishing
- 11
Shape the beard and style the hair
Finishing
- 12
Wrap the legs and break in the flats
Fitting
- 13
Full suit-up: hood over hat, plus a heat and sit-down check
Wear test
Frequently
asked questions.
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